Got a torn DOJ (Double-Offset Joint, aka CV joint) boot? Here’s how to replace it on a 2002 Subaru WRX.

This write-up details a front right DOJ boot replacement job.

Tools Required

• External snap ring pliers
• Torque wrench measuring up to 137 ft/lbs
• Impact gun (unless you enjoy removing strut bolts the hard way)
• 32mm socket (though not correct, I’ve used a 1 1/4″ socket without problems instead of a 32mm one)
• 19mm impact socket (short worked fine for me, deep would work better)
• 19mm wrench (or another 19mm socket and a ratchet)
• 12mm socket
• 3/16″ pin punch
• Hammer
• Beefy scissors or razor knife

Subaru Parts

Source grease (pre-measured amount when purchased from Subaru), an axle nut, an axle spring pin, a DOJ (inner) boot, and DOJ boot straps/clamps from a Subaru parts dealer.

Process

1. Break your lug nuts free (just barely) while the car is on the ground. DO NOT break your axle nut free yet.
2. Get the front of the car up on jack stands
3. If you examine your axle nut, you will see that it has been locked in place by indenting the nut into the keyed area of the axle itself. “Unlock” the axle nut with a hammer and cold chisel or similar so that the nut will eventually turn for removal.
4. Have someone apply heavy brake pedal pressure while you remove the axle nut with your 32mm socket. You will likely need a “cheater” bar to extend your breaker bar for much more torque in order to break the nut free. I had to use roughly 4ft of length to get mine to break free. Be careful to not scratch your body panels.
5. Discard the axle nut.
6. Remove your lug nuts and wheel
7. Remove the 12mm bolt holding your brake line to the strut
8. Using your impact gun and 19mm socket, disconnect the lower portion of the strut from the hub/knuckle assembly. Your strut should be free from the knuckle entirely, and easy to move. This lets you manipulate the hub/knuckle freely later in order to get the axle removed from it, but don’t do it yet.
9. Locate the spring pin that is through your axle near the transmission. Using a pin punch (not tapered!) and hammer, drive the spring pin out of the axle. Discard the spring pin.

 


10. You should be able to completely remove the axle from the transmission’s splined axle stub, then from the female-splined hub/knuckle assembly. I had to pursuade the axle out of the hub/knuckle by driving something appropriate against the end of the axle itself, sort of the same idea as used for the spring pin…
11. Sweet. An axle. Prepare to get really messy. I recommend several pairs of nitril or latex gloves and lots of paper towels.
12. Remove the bad boot’s retaining bands in whatever way you see fit. Discard them. Cut off the old torn boot in whatever way you see fit. Trash it.
13. Inside the DOJ housing (usually green), you will find a wire which prohibits the DOJ from coming out of the housing. If you can’t find it, wipe away more grease until you see it. Carefully spiral the wire out of the housing and set it aside. Do not bend it. I did this with my fingers and it was not difficult. You will be reusing this wire ring.
14. Remove the DOJ assembly from the green housing and set its 3 rings aside.
15. Wipe off the “top” of the DOJ “tree” (technically this is called the trunnion) and you will find a snap ring. Carefully emove this snap ring with your snap ring pliers, taking care not to lose an eye in the process. You can reuse this if you don’t mess up the snap ring.
16. With the snap ring removed, you can now slide the 3-nub head off of its splines to separate it from the axle.
17. You now have an axle with the DOJ end completely bare, a trunnion, the 3 rings that go onto the trunnion, a retaining wire, a snap ring (“circlip”) and the green housing.
     
    

    

18. If you’re keen to, wipe all of the grease off and clean the trunnion, the 3 rings, and the housing with degreaser until they’re spotless. My axle had about 20,000 miles on it, so I did not bother with this step. I just wiped some of the grease off so I could see what I was doing.
19. Install your new boot, small end first, onto the bare end of the axle and secure that end with your “small end” strap or clamp. My Subaru parts counter gave me some stainless steel zip-tie like things that I wasn’t crazy about, but I used them anyway.
20. Put the trunnion back on the axle splines and put the snap ring back in place to retain it
21. If your trunnion is cleaned off, spread some grease on the nubs
22. Place your 3 rings on your trunnion. They can only go on in 1 direction.
23. Fill the green housing half way with grease.
24. Insert the DOJ assembly into the housing, taking care not to knock off any of the 3 rings, and install the circular retaining wire so the DOJ can no longer come out of the housing.
25. Put the rest of your grease in the new boot
26. Slide the large end of the boot onto the housing and wipe off any major gobs of grease for the time-being.
27. Use your “large end” strap/clamp to secure the large end of the boot to the housing.
28. Clean up any remaining grease on the exterior of the axle.
29. Reinstall your axle, taking note to exactly line up the hole in the splined hub at the transmission to the hole in the end of the axle. This is where the spring pin will be reinstalled. It may take several tries to get installed on the correct spline.
30. Install a new spring pin through the axle. The spring pin is tapered a little on each end, so you can use your hand to push it in just enough so that it stays on its own. You do not have to hold it with one hand while you hammer it in with the other hand (like a nail). If you tap it in and it stops after 1/4″ or so, you do not have the holes lined up — do not proceed to hammer harder.
31. Reattach your strut to your hub/knuckle with the 2 bolts and impact socket (120 ft/lbs)
32. Install a new axle nut (never reuse old axle nuts!). Have someone stand on the brakes again and tighten to 137 ft/lbs. Make sure you do this with the car in the air still!
33. LOCK the axle nut with a hammer and something (I used a cold chisel)!
34. Reattach your brake line to the strut body.
35. Reinstall your wheel with lug nuts tightened by hand as tight as you can get them.
36. Lower the car to the ground
37. Tighten your lug nuts fully
38. Go for a short test drive around your area